“Andy is the best cocktail mixologist in the Triangle,” says Ted Powell, owner of Niche Cocktail & Wine Lounge. “Not because I think he’s that good, because I listen to my customers.”
The addition of “Cocktail” to the moniker is a relatively recent change for Niche, known as a Holly Springs mainstay for wine and live music.
“That was the reason we hired Andy: We wanted to expand into cocktails, and if you are going to do that, you better hire the best,” says Ted.
An experienced bartender with more than 12 years under his belt, Andy Cullen relishes the process of creating complex, balanced cocktails.
“I am a creative control freak. … It’s therapeutic to figure out recipes,” he says. “And I like efficiency and speed.”
“I like doing a lot of riffs. I do a riff of Sex on the Beach with vanilla vodka, a passion fruit margarita, different cucumber creations, a riff on a caramel espresso martini. I got into foams for a while; I used to like clarifying cocktails. I go through phases and then move on.”
Customers at Niche sip on great variety and originality as Andy experiments with seasonal specialties and mixology trends (ask for a drink using the edible bubble machine).
Regardless of fads, a well-executed classic cocktail is essential to Andy’s repertoire.
“Everyone loves an Old Fashioned right now, right? But they aren’t balanced. Everybody tries to do too much. Brevity is eloquence,” he says.
Andy prefers bourbon instead of whiskey in his Old Fashioneds because of “its more rounded flavor.” Add Angostura bitters, orange bitters, and a Luxardo cherry.
“I make my own syrups. I make demerara syrup and use that. I’m also big on the specific amount of times I rotate it: 45 times. Usually people like to serve the drink at its peak. I like to serve the drink right before its peak so the first sip bites you, and then it mellows,” says Andy.
“That’s why he’s as good as he is,” says Ted. “Most bartenders don’t know this stuff. It’s the best Old Fashioned I’ve ever had.”
“I love flaming the orange peel. What that does is caramelize the oils from the orange over the drink, and that brightens it up,” adds Andy.
Having a good memory, good personality, and the capability to adapt and be creative are all qualities necessary for a good bartender, he says.
Plus the ability to “give your best while dealing with people who might not be at their best.”
“If it’s a weekday or weeknight (when it’s slow), I love to cater to what people want. Who doesn’t want exactly what they feel like drinking?”
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